As the young lady sat in the plush art deco surroundings of one of the waiting rooms at Southampton’s Ocean Terminal, only opened in 1950 but standing like some 1930s throwback (indeed it was already seen as outdated in the New Elizabethan age of jet and atom), she probably had no idea of what to expect in England. The journey to London Victoria would be eye-opening in itself, for this was not a land of white colonial masters, lounging on verandas and sweating under the sun, like back home. Here she would see the terrace housing of the working class, soot-blackened like many buildings, with their housewives scrubbing steps on hands and knees while above them the chimneys of factories belched their poison into the air. Here was Blake’s image of Jerusalem made flesh, and if any of the immigrants travelled north then the cities became more industrialised, grimmer, with slag heaps rising in the landscape, and the thunderous noise of shipyards and mills and heavy industry, for Britain was still an industrial power.
The Southampton terminal she sat in had a train line directly to London. Below her were two platforms linking the port, like arteries, to the great cities. and human beings were the lifeblood pumped along them.
There is a booklet, written by the Jamaican poet H. D. Carberry and the Jamaican politician Dudley Thompson, called A West Indian in England. Created for the Colonial Office to Colonies, it was given out in the Caribbean between 1949 to 1951. It was designed as a guide for West Indians voyaging to Britain seeking work and gave a brief outline of what to expect. Written from a first person perspective here is the description of the narrator’s first reactions to his train journey to London (the carriages on the young lady’s train, from photographs, were more open):
In George Lamming’s semi-autobiographical novel The Emigrants, from 1954, we get the feeling of alienness that the newcomer encounters. Lamming’s characters have a sense that things aren’t quite right from the beginning, there is something wrong with the light, and the very earth beneath their feet feels different:
Lammings characters, travelling from Plymouth to London Paddington see from the train window the English countryside, and also a truly strange site, a hill figure, a white horse carved into a hill and rising from the landscape:
And Lamming’s characters now notice something the lady would too, even though a decade had passed since the conflict, the signs of war:
Only the buildings now, as they and our young lady approach London it is the buildings that swarm into view, back to back, crowded together, and often dark.
Smoke over the chimneys. Norman Mitchell, arriving in September 1955, colder days than the young lady’s arrival, describes his first memories of these chimneys:
“On the train coming up, we never see house have chimneys, so when I saw all these chimneys on these houses, I say ‘oh my gosh, look how many boiling house!’ Boiling house is where we make sugar, that’s the only thing we see chimney with. So I say ‘what a lot of boiling house they have there’.
When I get home that is when I realise that is the house, true they had the fire and they had the chimney to take away the smoke. That was my experience of coming into London.”1
The climate was a problem. The young lady arriving when she did had managed to avoid the harsher months, Mitchell wasn’t so lucky he felt the cold keenly. The clothing worn by West Indians was often unsuitable. You could tell the newness of an immigrant by the thinness of his suit.
The train moving through London’s suburbs, the buildings crowding in on Lamming’s characters:
Carberry and Thompson’s description of arriving in London contains a feeling of deflation, “casual and undramatic”, a letdown after coming such a long way. All the factors we described are mentioned:
Drab buildings, row on row of them, too many buildings, the blitz’s ravages pockmarking the cityscape, a different light: the narrator had reached his destination, just as on May 27th 1956 our young lady had. Here she would begin her new life in a foreign land, sold to her as the Mother Country. The journey, despite its strangeness, could only hint at the difference she would find between what she left behind and what she will encounter. And between dreams and reality. The greatest city of the Empire awaits her: London.
But its arms are only half open.
The train pulls into Victoria station.
- Read Mr Mitchell’s story here, on the Horniman Museum and Gardens site:
https://www.horniman.ac.uk/story/the-windrush-generation-normans-experience
Even though this has nothing to do with our narrative I just have to mention the walrus in their collection. Stuffed by taxidermists who had no idea what a walrus looked like, they removed all the wrinkles from
the skin.
https://www.horniman.ac.uk/object/NH.H.44
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